Overview: The Kumano Pilgrimage and the Ancient Abe Clan
Abe Oji Shrine reflects both the history of the Kumano pilgrimage and the legacy of the ancient Abe clan. Although the present main shrine buildings were reconstructed after World War II, historic structures remain within the grounds, including the former main shrine, which is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, and Kuzunoha Inari Shrine.
History of Abe Oji Shrine
A Founding Tradition Connected with Emperor Nintoku and the Gods of Kumano
According to the Setsushu Higashinari-gun Abe Gongen Engi-ki, a three-legged crow, regarded as a messenger of the gods of the three sacred mountains of Kumano, appeared in a dream of Emperor Nintoku.
The emperor ordered people to search for the mysterious bird, and they reportedly discovered one in this area, which was once said to have been an island called Abe Island. According to this tradition, a shrine was subsequently established at the present location.
The Abe Clan: Clan Temple and Guardian Shrine
Another theory connects the shrine with the ancient Abe clan, who are believed to have established their base in this area after the capital was moved to the Naniwa Nagara-Toyosaki Palace.
According to this tradition, the Abe clan established Abeji Temple as their clan temple and Abe Shrine as their clan shrine.
The History of Abeji Temple and the Revival by Kukai
Abeji Temple was once known as a large complex referred to as “Abederi Sengen-bo”. It was eventually incorporated into Shitennoji Temple, while the surviving Abe Shrine was reportedly revived by Kukai in 826, during the Heian period.
The temple associated with the shrine is also said to have received an imperial plaque from Emperor Junna bearing the name Amen-dera, meaning a temple associated with healing epidemics.
Abe Oji and the 99 Oji Shrines of the Kumano Route
The shrine stood approximately halfway between Shitennoji Temple and Sumiyoshi Taisha, along the route used by pilgrims traveling toward Kumano. Because of its location on the Kumano Kaido, an Oji shrine was eventually established here.
By the late Heian period, when Emperor Go-Toba made pilgrimages to Kumano, Abe Oji had become the fourth Oji shrine on the route, following Kubotsu Oji, Sakaguchi Oji, and Kōndo Oji, as recorded in the Record of Emperor Go-Toba’s Kumano Pilgrimage.
Later, Ueno Oji was established between Kōndo Oji and Abe Oji, making Abe Oji the fifth Oji on the route. During the conflicts of the Sengoku period, however, Sakaguchi Oji, Kōndo Oji, and Ueno Oji were destroyed by fire. By the Azuchi-Momoyama period, Abe Oji had become the second Oji on the route.
The Only Surviving Oji Shrine in Osaka Prefecture
One of the most distinctive features of Abe Oji Shrine is that it is the only Oji shrine in Osaka Prefecture that still stands at its original site. This surviving connection with the historic Kumano pilgrimage route gives the shrine exceptional historical significance.
Enshrined Deities
The Gods of Kumano
The principal deity known as Kumano Oji-no-Kami collectively refers to three deities: Izanagi-no-Mikoto, Izanami-no-Mikoto, and Haya Susanoo-no-Mikoto. These deities are associated with the three major Kumano shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha.
Emperor Ojin
Emperor Ojin, traditionally regarded as the 15th emperor of Japan, is also enshrined and has long been worshipped in connection with military protection and success.
The Shrine Grounds
Main Shrine and Worship Hall
The present main shrine and worship hall were reconstructed in 1967, replacing buildings that had been lost during the war.
Former Main Shrine — Registered Tangible Cultural Property
The former main shrine was built in 1908. It stands on a cut-stone foundation along the southern edge of the grounds and faces east.
The small wooden structure has a distinctive nagare-zukuri style with a copper-sheet roof. Although relatively simple in appearance, it incorporates unusual architectural details, including a stepped projecting roof and karahafu gable decoration. It is designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan.
Okara Shrine and the Yatagarasu
Okara Shrine enshrines Yatagarasu, the sacred three-legged crow regarded as a divine messenger of the gods of Kumano. The shrine is also known as a place where visitors come to make wishes.
Kuzunoha Inari Shrine — Connected with the Legend of Abe no Seimei
Kuzunoha Inari Shrine enshrines Kuzunoha, the legendary mother of the famous Heian-period onmyoji, Abe no Seimei.
According to legend, Kuzunoha was actually a supernatural fox. The shrine is therefore closely associated with the stories surrounding Abe no Seimei, much like Shidanomori Kuzunoha Inari Shrine in Izumi City, Osaka Prefecture.
The main shrine building is traditionally said to have originally been the main shrine of Otoko-yama Hachiman Shrine. It is also designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan.
Other Shrine Buildings
The grounds also include a General Auxiliary Shrine enshrining Amaterasu Okami, Toyouke Okami, Sumiyoshi Okami, Kasuga Okami, Konpira Okami, Ebisu Okami, Tenma Okami, Kora Okami, and Yuka Okami.
Suijin Shrine enshrines Mizuhanome-no-Kami, Takaokami-no-Kami, and Kuraokami-no-Kami.
Shrines Outside the Main Grounds
Tamaki Inari Shrine
Tamaki Inari Shrine is an affiliated shrine of Abe Oji Shrine and enshrines Tamaki Daimyojin and Tamamura Daimyojin.
Abe no Seimei Shrine
Abe no Seimei Shrine is another affiliated shrine located outside the main grounds. It is dedicated to Abe no Seimei, the famous onmyoji of the Heian period.
Access to Abe Oji Shrine
Nearest Stations and Bus Stop
Osaka City Bus routes 62, 63, 64, and 67: The Oji-cho bus stop is immediately near the shrine.
Hankai Electric Tramway Uemachi Line: Approximately a 3-minute walk from Higashi-Tengachaya Station.
Osaka Metro Midosuji Line: Approximately a 12-minute walk from Showacho Station.
Parking: Parking is available for approximately six vehicles.
Abe no Seimei Shrine
A Mysterious Shrine Dedicated to the Legendary Onmyoji Abe no Seimei
Abe no Seimei Shrine stands approximately 50 meters north of Abe Oji Shrine in Abeno Ward, Osaka City. It is dedicated to Abe no Seimei, the famous onmyoji of the Heian period.
The shrine is an affiliated shrine of Abe Oji Shrine, occupying a separate site. Its mysterious atmosphere and connections with the legends surrounding Seimei have made it a popular destination for visitors.
Overview: The Traditional Birthplace of Abe no Seimei
Abe no Seimei Shrine was established at a site traditionally regarded as the birthplace of Abe no Seimei. Seimei is widely remembered as a master of Onmyodo, the traditional Japanese system of cosmology and divination, and is worshipped as a deity associated with divination.
The shrine is also traditionally believed to offer protection from misfortune. Its quiet grounds provide a peaceful atmosphere for visitors.
History of Abe no Seimei Shrine
Foundation and Tradition: Was It Established by Emperor Kazan?
According to the shrine’s traditional record, the Seimei-gu Gosha Denshosho, Abe no Seimei was born at this location in 944. The record states that the shrine was established in 1007 at the command of Emperor Kazan.
However, this tradition has been questioned by historical research, and its historical accuracy remains disputed.
The Yasuda Family and the Shrine’s Traditions
The Yasuda family, which traditionally claimed descent from Seimei, served as the shrine’s hereditary priestly family. The shrine is said to have become influential enough during the Edo period for the Osaka Castle magistrate to visit.
However, research including studies by Yasutaka Hasegawa, chief priest of Abe Oji Shrine, has suggested that the Seimei-gu Gosha Denshosho may have been a fabricated document created by the Yasuda family.
The Yasuda family is believed to have originated as a local ruling family in Yasuda-no-Sho in Kii Province’s Arida District, rather than being connected by lineage to the Abe clan. During the Edo period, the shrine was privately owned by Yasuda, the village headman of Abeno Village, and is considered to have effectively been established by the Yasuda family around the time when the Edo-period legend of Kuzunoha became widespread.
Decline and Revival in the Modern Era
The shrine declined toward the end of the Edo period. By the Meiji period, only a small shrine and stone monument remained.
A revival plan emerged toward the end of the Meiji period, and in 1921 the shrine was officially recognized as a branch shrine of Abe Oji Shrine.
The Yasuda family donated the former shrine site, and the present shrine buildings were completed in 1925.
The Osaka Air Raids and the Shrine’s Protective Reputation
During the Osaka air raids of 1945, incendiary bombs fell within the shrine grounds. However, they did not explode, and the shrine buildings miraculously escaped destruction.
Local residents came to say that “Seimei protected us,” and the shrine subsequently gained an even stronger reputation as a place associated with protection from misfortune.
Enshrined Deity
The principal deity of Abe no Seimei Shrine is Abe no Seimei. He was an influential onmyoji of the Heian period and is particularly associated with astronomy, Onmyodo, and traditional divination.
The Abe Clan and Historical Tradition
The Seimei-gu Gosha Denshosho contains traditions concerning the ancestry of the Abe clan, including a claim that Ohohiko-no-Mikoto and Hiko-Oshinobi-no-Mikoto were the same person.
The document also states that the Abe clan used the characters 阿閇 when writing its clan name. These accounts, however, belong to the shrine’s traditional narratives rather than established historical fact.
Shrine Grounds and Registered Cultural Properties
Main Shrine — Registered Tangible Cultural Property
The main shrine, built in 1925, is a small one-story wooden structure with a copper-sheet roof in the nagare-zukuri architectural style.
Although its floor area is only approximately 3.5 square meters, it features carefully crafted architectural details. The building was designed by Tanejiro Yoshida, formerly an engineer with Nara Prefecture.
Worship Hall — Registered Tangible Cultural Property
The worship hall was also built in 1925. It faces west in front of the main shrine and is a one-story wooden structure with a copper-sheet roof and a three-bay irimoya-zukuri design, creating a calm and traditional entrance to the shrine.
Heiden Offering Hall — Registered Tangible Cultural Property
The heiden offering hall, built in 1925, projects from the center of the rear of the worship hall and forms an integrated structure with it.
Sukibei Fence — Registered Tangible Cultural Property
The sukibei open wooden fence was built in 1924. Constructed of wood with a copper-sheet roof, it extends from the rear of the worship hall and surrounds the main shrine as a sacred boundary.
Other Highlights of the Shrine Grounds
Taimei Inari Shrine: An Inari shrine whose name is associated with the name of Abe no Seimei’s father.
Statue of Abe no Seimei: A life-size bronze statue of Seimei.
Statue of the Flying Spirit Fox Kuzunoha: A statue inspired by the legend of Kuzunoha, traditionally regarded as Seimei’s mother.
Chinseki (Harami-ishi): A sacred stone traditionally associated with safe childbirth.
Monument to the Traditional Birthplace of Abe no Seimei: A stone monument marking the site traditionally identified as Seimei’s birthplace.
Remains of Abe no Seimei’s Birth-Bathing Well: The remains of a well traditionally said to have been used for Seimei’s first bath after birth.
Access to Abe no Seimei Shrine
Nearest Stations and Bus Stop
Osaka City Bus routes 62, 63, 64, and 67: The Oji-cho bus stop is immediately near the shrine.
Hankai Electric Tramway Uemachi Line: Approximately a 3-minute walk from Higashi-Tengachaya Station.
Osaka Metro Midosuji Line: Approximately a 12-minute walk from Showacho Station.
Parking: Parking is available for approximately six vehicles.
Following in the Footsteps of Abe no Seimei
Abe no Seimei Shrine offers visitors an opportunity to explore the traditions and legends surrounding one of Japan’s best-known onmyoji. The shrine grounds contain several Registered Tangible Cultural Properties, as well as monuments and statues connected with Seimei and the Kuzunoha legend.
Together with nearby Abe Oji Shrine, the site provides a fascinating glimpse into the history of the Kumano pilgrimage, medieval Japan, and the rich traditions that have developed around Abe no Seimei.